LED Strip Lighting

An aluminium profile with a milky cover does three jobs: it hides the dots, protects the strip, and draws heat away so the strip lasts longer.

• Check the width. Every profile lists the widest strip it takes. The chart below shows which strips fit each one.
• Surface profiles screw or clip onto the underside of a cabinet or shelf.
• Recessed profiles sit in a groove or a cut-out, with a flange to hide the edge.
• Trimless profiles are plastered into the wall or ceiling, so the light looks like a slot in the plaster.

Profiles come in 2m or 2.5m lengths. You can see samples in both our showrooms.

Every strip needs a constant voltage driver that matches its voltage.

• Add up the watts: watts per metre multiplied by the metres you are installing.
• Allow 20% headroom: divide that total by 0.8 and pick the next driver size up. A 5m reel of a 10W/m strip is 50W. Divided by 0.8 that is 62.5W, so it needs a 100W driver. We stock 35W, 60W, 100W and 150W.
• Damp areas: our drivers are sealed to IP67, so they suit damp spots too.

Every strip page works out the driver size for the length you enter.

Optional. A strip runs on its driver alone. Add a control only if you want to dim it, change colour or switch it with a sensor.

• Remote dimmer kit: a wireless touch remote and receiver for single colour strips. Each output handles up to 72W.
• RGB remote kit: colour wheel remote for RGB strips and RGB neon.
• Sensors: motion for hallways and stairs, door for wardrobes and pantries, hand-wave for kitchens, touch dimmer for vanities and bedheads. Each runs up to 100W.
• Bigger loads: a power repeater lets one controller dim a strip that needs more than one driver.